Fast-growing, though, isn’t a strong enough word. Not only has there been massive growth in the local population in recent years – the population of Cabo San Lucas nearly tripled between 2010 and 2020, and is ten times more than in 1990 – but luxury hotel brands seemingly can’t build new resorts here fast enough. Four Seasons has built two new resorts here since 2019 and in the interim new properties have been opened for big-name hospitality brands like Ritz-Carlton, Waldorf Astoria, and Nobu. Soho House, St. Regis, Park Hyatt, and Aman are expected to open properties here within the next year.

The average hotel room rate has risen to over $500 per night and guests at most hotels and resorts are treated to a level of indulgence far beyond what was typical in the smaller, less polished Los Cabos of 30 years ago. Hard as it may be to believe for first-time visitors, who take the chic accommodations and abundant amenities for granted, it wasn’t always like this. The unique brand of Los Cabos luxury that has now proven so attractive is the result of nearly 70 years of growth and evolution. 

Hotel Palmilla and the birth of Los Cabos hospitality

Before Abelardo “Rod” Rodríguez Jr. opened Hotel Palmilla (originally Las Cruces Palmilla and now One&Only Palmilla) in 1957, the only other lodging in the area was the small Casa Fisher guesthouse in central San José del Cabo. Rodríguez, the son of a former Mexican President, had something more ambitious in mind. His marriage to Hollywood actress Lucille Bremer had helped draw a celebrity clientele to their Rancho Las Cruces resort when it opened near La Paz in 1948. The formula worked for them at Palmilla, too. Soon after its opening, high-profile guests like Ernest Hemingway, Bing Crosby, John Wayne, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, and U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower were among those inhabiting Palmilla’s 15 rooms across 400 sprawling acres. This was the birth of Los Cabos’ reputation as an A-list getaway destination – even though tourism was still in its infancy. The transpeninsular highway wasn’t completed until 1973, and the Los Cabos International Airport didn’t open until 1977. 

The Hotel Palmilla (whatever name it has been known by) has been the region’s benchmark property and a trendsetter throughout its history. The succeeding owner Don Koll convinced Jack Nicklaus to come to Los Cabos to build the area’s first world-class golf at Palmilla in the 1990s. This set the template that continues in Los Cabos to this day. Not only must the best resorts offer access to a golf course from a renowned designer to their guests, but golf courses have also become the centerpiece of every major residential real estate development in the area.

The man who defined luxury hospitality in Los Cabos

One&Only Palmilla would also change the quality of cuisine in Los Cabos during the management heyday of the legendary managing hotel director Edward Steiner. Steiner was the first to elevate a Los Cabos resort to world-class status. However, that originally happened at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, which he oversaw beginning with its opening in 1997. A Los Angeles Times writer visiting the property a year later wondered, “This is Cabo?” The $475 per night price tag and the resort’s amazing service and amenities – validated by a AAA Five Diamond status – marked a sea change in the existing fishing-friendly, “party hearty” hospitality model. 

Outshone for the first time in its history, the newly rebranded One&Only Palmilla hired away Steiner in 2003 and he remained with the resort until 2012. The expansion of rooms (to 174) took place on his watch, as did the unveiling of a 25,000-square-foot luxury spa to compete with the holistic spa at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, the first of its kind in the area. Spas, naturally, soon became a specialty at every Los Cabos luxury lodging, with an “arms race” to see who could build the biggest, and provide the most pampering treatments. Montage now holds the record for the former, with a 40,000-square-foot wellness center. 

One&Only Palmila likewise upgraded its dining options, bringing in celebrated imported chefs like Charlie Trotter and Larbi Dahrouch; an example since followed, and responsible for the Michelin-star quality chefs now notable in present-day Los Cabos – from Martín Berasategui and Enrique Olvera to Sidney Schutte and Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Steiner passed away in 2013, but his unique conception of luxury hospitality remains the standard by which all other regional hoteliers are judged. More importantly, by proving that Los Cabos could support a discerning luxury clientele, he laid the foundation for all the high-end hotel brands that would follow. 

Barefoot luxury and the value of location and one-of-a-kind experiences

Ocean views, beachfront access, pampering spas, swimming pools, and exceptional cuisine became the formula for all new hotels and resorts in Los Cabos – with world-class golf access also a must. However, the “only in Cabo” style barefoot luxury pioneered at Las Ventanas al Paraiso and One&only Palmilla wasn’t just about beautiful beaches and pampering service. It was also about special experiences. As Rodrigo Esponda, Managing Director of the Los Cabos Tourism Board, has noted of how the conception of luxury has evolved locally: “Luxury is to wake up and see a whale jumping out from the ocean right in front of you, or sleeping under a sky full of stars with shapes and lights you have never seen before, or savoring a dish of freshly caught fish, offered in the most kind, unique type of hospitality you’ve ever enjoyed before.

Leveraging Los Cabos’ spectacular blend of mountain, desert, and ocean scenery, and its location-specific charms – including marlin fishing, off-road explorations, and bucket list activities like whale watching – has, over time, been integrated into a type of resort experience that is necessarily different than that offered at any other destination. Las Ventanas al Paraiso, not surprisingly, is still a leader in this area, with curated experiences focused on romance and gastronomy. But it has plenty of competition. Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal in Cabo San Lucas has curated experiences, as do One&Only Palmilla, Esperanza, and every other upscale property worth its salt-rimmed, pool butler-delivered margaritas. 

In 2024, it’s no longer a question of whether guests prefer vacation pampering or an unforgettable adventure. They can have both, from spas as decadent as those enjoyed by Roman emperors to curated desert helicopter expeditions and private yacht excursions. Los Cabos’ best resorts have mastered an elevated approach to personalized and location-specific luxury that legendary figures like Rodriguez, Bremer, Koll, and Steiner would undoubtedly have approved. They helped to create the blueprint, after all.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

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The Tourism Ministry (Sectur) reported this week that 4,831,000 people held jobs in the tourism sector during the first quarter of 2024: a 7.7% increase over the then-record number of people employed in tourism during the first quarter of 2020. This figure represents 9% of all employment in Mexico during the first three months of the year, Tourism Minister Miguel Torruco Marqués noted.

In real numbers, 344,009 more people were employed in the tourism sector during the first three months of this year than were in January-March 2020.

The increase in tourism-industry jobs comes in the context of a steady post-pandemic rebound of international travel to Mexico. More than 42 million international tourists visited Mexico in 2023, a 10% increase over the number of international travelers who arrived in the country in 2022.

The national statistics agency (INEGI) reported earlier this month that 4.1 million international tourists visited the country in March, up 10.6% over the same month last year.

Sectur also reported that there was 0.6% quarter-over-quarter job growth in Mexico’s tourism sector over the fourth quarter of 2023. 

In annual terms, the jobs in the tourism sector in Q1 2024 grew 3.3% — or 153,333 additional jobs — over the first quarter of 2023.

With reports from Forbes

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The vibe here is colorful, smiles and laughter abound, street corners are a crossroads of aromatic taco stands and flower stalls. Above all, Mexico City’s vast square footage indicates a lifetime of exploration here still wouldn’t be enough.

But you’ve got to start somewhere.

A weekend away in Mexico City is, as they say, always a good idea. It’s true that costs are rising, compounded by an ever-strengthening peso. Despite all that, Mexico offers a benefit that most places do not. 

Value.

It’s hard to complain about prices when the value is there. The service here is so attentive that your plate is often removed before you’ve swallowed your final bite. Every hotel staff member seems to remember your name. Baristas know how you take your coffee, even if it’s only your second visit.

Nowhere is this more evident than hotel stays. For some, a hotel is a place to sleep and nothing more. For others, like yours truly, your lodging experience is the key to an unforgettable getaway. A little investment in a high quality hotel can go a long way.

Don’t let your perfectly crafted itinerary be tainted by a poor lodging choice. Browse this list of hotels that will take your weekend getaway in Mexico City from good to hands-down magical. These spots all have something unique to offer – historical significance, top-notch staff, seductive design, or optimal location – and run the gamut of pricing, from budget to luxury.

Cuauhtémoc

Am I biased in introducing this list with Colonia Cuauhtemoc? 100%. This is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Mexico City. Sitting adjacent to the graceful Torre del Angel, one would think it has already been washed out by visitors. Yet, it remains quite undiscovered. With Avenida Reforma serving as a protective barrier, Cuauhtémoc has maintained a local lifestyle while still warmly welcoming the daring tourists who cross the impressive multi-laned boulevard.

Its location is ideal – walk to Chapultepec Park in 15 minutes, Roma or Condesa in 30 minutes, Polanco in 50, and Centro in 60. It might not have the jaw-dropping facades of Roma and Condesa, but it’s a lively place where you will get the feeling that you’re actually in Mexico.

Casa Emilia Río Ebro 51 – standard room rate: US$145

Casa Pani Río Po 14 – standard room rate: US$200

Hotel Carlota Río Amazonas 73 –  standard room rate: US$150

Don’t miss: Somma Wine Bar on Calle Lerma for its diverse wine list and excellent people-watching opportunities.

Roma Norte

It’s one of the most frequented sections of Mexico City and that’s because it’s simply beautiful. Roma Norte is separated from Roma Sur by Calle Coahuila and was built in the early 20th Century during the Porfiriato, resulting in its French-style facades and bountiful green parks. The area saw major damage during the 1985 earthquake but quickly regained its footing, flourishing as an aesthetic enclave of trendy restaurants, art galleries, boutique shops, and the much-appreciated recreation of a rather shapely David in Parque Rio de Janeiro.

Casa Goliana Guanajuato 199 – standard room rate: US$230

Nima Local House Colima 236 – standard room rate: US$500 

Ignacia Guest House Jalapa 208 – standard room rate: US$350

Roso Guest House Tabasco 79 – standard room rate: US$400

Colima 71 Colima 71 – standard room rate: US$375

Don’t miss: Casa Guillermo Tovar de Teresa, a gem of a museum with a romantic garden courtyard and the standard free entry expected from a Carlos Slim institution.

Centro Histórico

I once described Mexico City as “a chaotic mess of human existence but everyone seems to be having fun” and nowhere is this more apparent than in Centro. No matter the hour, you’ll find within its populous streets a frenzy of activity. It’s the seat of modern-day CDMX as we know it, with life spiraling outwards from two significant sites: the ruins of Templo Mayor, and the Metropolitan Cathedral which was constructed from the bricks of Templo Mayor. 

Flooding the area are sage-burning “shamans”, vendors selling colorful trinkets you’ll buy and never use, dimly-lit cantinas, museums, and optimal backdrops for a hashtag-just-another-Saturday-in-Mexico-City selfie, like La Casa de los Azulejos.

• Círculo Mexicano República de Guatemala 20 – standard room rate: US$200
• Gran Hotel Ciudad De México 16 de Septiembre 82 – standard room rate: US$200
• Casa de la Luz Hotel Boutique Rcda. de Jesús 7 – standard room rate: US$300
• Downtown México Isabel La Católica 30 – standard room rate: US$175
• Hotel B Urban by Fontán Reforma Av. P.º de la Reforma 24 – standard room rate: US$100

Don’t miss: A pop into the Museo Archivo de la Fotografía for a dreamy photography exhibit of life in Mexico.

Polanco

It’s fancy. It’s wealthy. And while many people want to knock it, it cannot be denied that Polanco is really, really lovely. Ornate Spanish-style family homes encase a hub of award-winning restaurants, art galleries, trendy bars, and luxury shops. It’s the perfect place to casually sip on an almond milk cappuccino with a foam flower under a willowing jacaranda while wearing your Sunday’s best…on a Tuesday. 

The modest number of historical attractions in this part of town gives you the chance to see real-life locals in action. Staying here is a splurge, but if the thought of spending a weekend in the Mexican mansion of your dreams makes your heart flutter, it’s a splurge to consider.

• Las Alcobas Av. Pdte. Masaryk 390 – standard room rate: US$500
• Pug Seal Anatole France Anatole France 307– standard room rate: US$250
• Orchid House Campos Elíseos 76 – standard room rate: US$200
• The Wild Oscar Lamartine 516 – standard room rate: US$300
• Casa Polanco Luis G. Urbina 84 – standard room rate: US$550
• Campos Polanco Campos Elíseos 361 – standard room rate: US$275

La Condesa

Named after Countess (La Condesa) María Magdalena Dávalos y Orosco, born in 1701, what was once an ever-expanding hacienda became the bohemian, tree-lined neighborhood we hear about so often today. Condesa is known for its leafy boulevards, abundant parks, charming cafes, boutique shops, and the famous Avenida Amsterdam that loops along Parque México and was once a horse track. 

Expect a high concentration of expats and an almost shocking abundance of English, ideal for travelers who haven’t yet mastered the Spanish language.

• Hotel Villa Condesa Colima 428 – standard room rate: US$150
• The Red Tree House Culiacán 6 – standard room rate: US$125
• The Amsterdam Amsterdam 143 – standard room rate: US$300
• Hotel San Fernando Iztaccihuatl 54 – standard room rate: US$200
• Casa Decu La Condesa Culiacán 10 – standard room rate: US$120

Stayed in all of the above and want something different? Here are a few more options to consider.

San Rafael

It was considered one of the first “modern” neighborhoods in Mexico City when its gridlike layout was brought to life in 1891. The architecture here is eclectic, with Arabic features intertwined with Mexican colors and a strong Porfiriato influence. It’s truly a step into the past and a practical base for exploring colonias like Santa Maria la Ribera and Juarez.

• El Patio 77 Joaquin Garcia Icazbalceta 77 – standard room rate: US$90

Don’t miss: The dreamy arched alleyway inside La Privada Roja, a historical building made of red brick that houses galleries, restaurants, and apartments.

Coyoacán

Obviously, Coyoacán is famous for Frida, but it is so much more. The neighborhood is a captivating world of its own. Visit the central market, sit in the bustling squares, check out the fascinating museums, and allow yourself to get lost within its quiet, winding streets.

• Agata Hotel Boutique & Spa Av. México 21, Del Carmen – standard room rate: US$275

Don’t miss: Diego Rivera’s collection of pre-hispanic works at the Anahuacalli Museum, a collection which comes second to the design of the space itself.

Finally, Hoteles MX has various locations in CDMX which hover around US$70 per night.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The post The best boutique hotels in Mexico City and where to find them appeared first on Mexico News Daily

I’ve been curious about the Maya Train since plans for its construction were first announced in 2018. I have a certain nostalgia for the trains I took into Chicago as a child and have always wished Mexico had more train travel options available. I’ve followed along with the many controversies and discussions around the train, with detractors saying it will be the worst thing to happen to the Yucatán peninsula and supporters saying it will be the best. In the end, the results will probably be mixed, which is what I found on my trip to ride the entire open route from Cancún to Palenque.

After eight days and seven stops, I can tell you that the biggest issue I faced was not the train itself, but the transportation infrastructure from the stations to the destinations where we stopped. This travel guide should help you avoid some of the pitfalls I experienced.

I recommend buying your tickets online in advance to avoid any issues. Keep in mind that on every stretch of the train — except the one from Valladolid to Mérida — the air conditioning started out great and got progressively worse as we went along. It was never completely off but there were plenty of times that I wished for more.

Cancún

The station in Cancún feels grand, like one of the classic European train stations you see in movies from the early 20th century. There was a good crowd the day I boarded, as the section from Cancún to Mérida is one of the most popular routes. On the train I met Lucy and Javier, two retirees who were traveling all over the Yucatán via the Maya Train, stopping in Valladolid, Mérida and Campeche.

“We remember when there was a train from Guadalajara to Mexico City,” Lucy told me. “We used to take it all the time.” The couple were looking forward to seeing what this new train was like. 

That first ride to Valladolid was exciting. The train was gleaming — brand new, clean and super smooth. I bought a drink at the snack counter and chatted with the other riders. The view out the window this time of year was mostly dry jungle, but inside riders seemed happy to just chat and relax. There was no Wi-Fi on board, something I would come to discover was true of the entire route. Workers told me that some of the cars were outfitted with Wi-Fi, but even though on a few sections the network did appear on my phone, it was always without internet.

Getting to and from the train

Arriving at the Cancún airport, there are free shuttles that bring you to the train station from terminals 2, 3 and 4, departing five times a day.

Make sure to get one of these shuttles, because if not the taxi drivers will rip you off, charging at minimum 800 pesos, or US$50, for a 10-minute ride to the station.

Valladolid

The city of Valladolid is old-world chic, with a growing number of boutique shops and very decent regional restaurants. It’s a great base for exploring the amazing wildlife at the nearby Ría Lagartos biosphere reserve, particularly their flocks of electric pink flamingos, or visiting Las Coloradas, the area’s famous rose-colored salt flats. I stayed in one of the gorgeous nature villas at Oriundo Hotel outside of town, but most of the hotels and restaurants are right in the center of town. There are also many lovely cenotes nearby to while away a day swimming and picnicking.

Getting to and from the train

There are no taxis that wait at the station as of yet — though with increasing arrivals I think there will be — so arriving in Valladolid your option is the waiting bus that takes you to the ADO bus terminal in the center of town. The trip costs 35 pesos and lasts about 20 minutes. The fact that Valladolid is a small town and most of the action is downtown made this the most convenient connection of the whole trip. I stayed overnight in Valladolid and took the same bus back the next day and the ADO ticket counter people were fully informed about the bus’s schedule.

Mérida

With its crumbling mansions, sultry climate and exquisite restaurants and bars, Mérida is one of my favorite cities in Mexico. I stayed at The Diplomat, my favorite hotel, and took advantage of its proximity to the Santiago market to try some local fare. Mérida finally has a population willing and able to support its dozens of great eating and drinking options as well as some very fine art galleries and shopping.

Getting to and from the train

Arriving in Mérida in the evening there were no taxis but several e-trams — part of Mérida’s public transportation system — were waiting to take arrivals to both the La Plancha and Paseo 60 stations for 45 pesos. The trip took about 30 minutes. The bus driver knew little about the rest of the connecting route through the city, so I took a 70 peso taxi from the drop-off station to my hotel. Mérida has Uber and Didi, and both apps are inexpensive and work well — although wait times tend to be longer than in a big city like Mexico City. This makes getting around the city a breeze, and while I’m a big fan of public transportation I gave up trying to figure it out in Mérida and just took cabs or walked.

Getting back to the station was easy, but I had to go to the La Plancha tram stop the day before and ask about the train times which are not announced anywhere online that I could find. When I got there, the times were written on a tiny piece of paper taped to the ticket counter. When I asked the woman there if the times were published anywhere she said no; they “weren’t set yet.” Anyone wanting to know had to come to the station to check. I came back the next day and the bus to the train station did leave on time. It cost 45 pesos, like my trip into town.

Edzná

Leaving Mérida I decided to go all the way to Edzná to see if it would be possible to see the ruins there before they closed for the day. On the way I met Paulina who was traveling with two other women back from Mérida to Palenque where they lived. I asked her how the trip was going and she said their trip on the train was cheaper than the bus and took 4 hours less time so for them it was no-brainer. They seemed a happy group, even if by this time we were all sweating on this leg of the trip. 

The archaeological ruins at Edzná, a former powerful regional capital on the Yucatán Peninsula from AD 400 to 1000, were stunning. The site is small, the buildings dramatic and there were only a handful of other tourists. I recommend going early in the day, as there is little tree cover and walking around in the midday heat almost did me in.

Getting to and from the train

When I got to the Edzná station things more or less fell apart, and I had to remind myself to go with the flow and embrace the chaos. I had previously asked about transportation in Edzná from other train workers and was told there would be taxis there, but when I arrived there was nothing but me, a hot breeze, some sad-looking palm trees and a stray dog. Zenaida, the woman working at the station, was extremely kind but a bit shocked by my assumption that there would be transportation.

Zenaida told me that a bus line is in the works but hasn’t been developed yet because “the station isn’t finished,” which was why there were no stores there either. I’m not sure how unfinished a station is when it’s already receiving passengers, but I kept my opinion to myself. Zenaida called a motorcycle taxi for me who might have been the only one in town and also offered car service from one of the station’s employees who uses his vehicle as a kind of Uber for tourists who want to get to the Edzná ruins there. 

The ruins — the only attraction in Edzná as there is no town to speak of and only a single store along the highway — are 15 kilometers away and the hot wind in the back of the mototaxi made the trip feel like riding in a microwave. Abram, my driver, was a super nice guy and talked to me about the hotel that the government was building near the site that would allow people to spend the night there once it opens at the end of June — the same date Zenaida said that the Edzná station would be finished.

So down the road, it looks like there will be transportation and lodging; for now, be sure to bring water and food, as there are no shops at the ruins either. Since the train only arrives in Edzná in the afternoon and doesn’t leave until the next morning I took a combi — a small shared van — back to Campeche. The worker at the ruins said it came at 3:30 p.m. at a stop down the road. Instead, it showed up at 3 p.m., right at the entrance to the ruins. I almost missed it.

Campeche

Campeche is another gem. Yucatán’s walled city was often attacked by pirates during the colonial years, and the city’s multi-colored facades and the remaining sections of its great wall make for a charming ambiance. The seafood here is also top-notch. Be sure to amble down Calle 59 with its cafes and bars lit up with twinkling lights in the evening. If you want to see Edzná, I recommend staying in Campeche and making it a day trip.

Getting to and from the train

Since I didn’t arrive in Campeche on the train, I didn’t get the experience of coming into town from the station. I now know that buses wait for each arriving train to take passengers into the city center. They drop you off on the oceanfront, where the massive letters that spell out Campeche stand., From there, it’s a short walk to the restaurants and hotels of the Historic Center.

Getting back to the station was painful. There’s no information online except for a few articles from December 2023 that say there are stops at four different points throughout the city. I ended up going to the bus station and being told there was a bus that picked up riders at 6:30, 10:30, and 11:30 at the same spot as the drop-off. I arrived there at 11:10 and waited until 11:34, but no bus came. 

“Sometimes they come early and sometimes they come late!” a man wearing a Maya Train hat told me. “That’s how we do things in Campeche, everything backwards!” said his buddy. My advice for Campeche is to take a cab to the train station, which will cost you 150-200 pesos from the Historic Center.

Palenque

The home of one of Mexico’s greatest archaeological sites is also known for its waterfalls and swimming holes, so that’s what I chose to do on this part of the trip — I’d already seen the ruins before. The waterfalls of Misol Ha, Roberto Barrios and Agua Azul are all gorgeous places to spend an afternoon staving off the heat and communing with nature, especially during the week, when there are fewer tourists. The town of Palenque itself has never held much draw for me, but it’s a good base for exploring the region.

On the train, the landscape from Campeche to Palenque was a little more exciting, passing small farms, cattle ranches and greener jungle. The Palenque station was probably the most grandiose and lovely of all the stations along the route, and many passengers I met along the way were making the trip from Campeche or Mérida straight to Palenque, so I envision this station getting a lot of use in the future.

Getting to and from the train

The day before going to Palenque, I stopped off in Escárcega, where, once again, there was no public transportation. The station workers called me a cab. Coming back the next day they told me the train was having technical difficulties and it would be at least an hour and half late. We finally got into Palenque 2.5 hours late, and despite the station manager assuring us that there was a public bus that would take us to the ADO bus station in the center of town, it never arrived. 

Instead, there were taxis, which charged 150 pesos to the hotel zone in town and 200 to the hotels on the road to the ruins. From the ADO station in town, I found out that the buses to the Maya Train station leave at 6 a.m. every day and wait for the arrivals on the 5 p.m. train every afternoon. When I mentioned to him that when we arrived late there was no bus waiting, he said, yeah, sometimes if they tell us train is late we don’t wait. 

Reflections on my journey

Except for Edzná, all of these cities are major stops on the train, and so are the most likely to have transportation. Still, as you can see, it wasn’t well organized at many of the stops. Some of the small stations along the route are not fully operational yet, and many lack basic infrastructure. It’s more likely that these smaller stops will be useful for locals traveling around the peninsula than tourists like the two women riding from Campeche I met going to see their mother in the tiny town of Carrillo Puerto.

I do think some of the operational kinks are bound to be fixed as the train heads towards its first anniversary, but for international tourists who don’t speak Spanish, much is needed to make travel smoother including informational signs, a map of the route at stations, reliable and easy-to understand-public transportation and English-speaking staff. While it was an adventure and I did love riding on a train again, I think I will hold off on another trip on the Maya Train until it’s a little further down the track.

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.

The post From Cancún to Palenque on the Maya Train: A travel guide appeared first on Mexico News Daily

The partnership will increase access to multiple destinations in Mexico while also unlocking more international routes for Emirates passengers, including 20 convenient flight options that connect six points in Mexico with several popular cities in the United States.

Executive Vice President and Chief Planning and Alliances Officer at Viva Aerobus Javier Suárez praised the agreement in comments published by Emirates’s press office last week.

“We are excited about this new partnership with Emirates. … [which] allows passengers from the many Mexican cities to make a short stop in Mexico City, board an Emirates flight to reach the great city of Barcelona and/or to continue their trip to Dubai and beyond. All of this with the convenience of buying a single ticket,” Suárez said.

Emirates’ offered a similar statement: “We are pleased to activate an interline partnership with Viva Aerobus to deepen our reach in Mexico beyond Mexico City,” said Adnan Kazim, Emirates’ deputy president and chief commercial officer. “This new offering is in line with our Fly Better promise … and we look forward to further developing the partnership in the future to elevate its benefits for our customers.”

The interline agreement will allow Emirates customers to fly from Mexico City to 21 domestic destinations while benefiting from the convenience of the two airlines’ one-bag-on-one-ticket policy.

Aviación Online reported that travelers arriving to Mexico City from Dubai will now be able to connect to other Mexican destinations including Acapulco, Cancún, Guadalajara and Monterrey. The interline network will also feature direct flights to Mexico City from Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Los Angeles and Miami, among other U.S. cities.

Emirates inaugurated its services to Mexico City in 2019. Last year the airline expanded its codeshare partnership with United Airlines to include eight new destinations in Mexico.

In addition, Emirates SkyCargo, the freight division of the Dubai-based carrier, operates two freighter services in the country, to Mexico City and Guadalajara.

With reports from Aviación Online and Emirates.com

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Historically, Indigenous populations such as the Zapotec and Maya have long accepted sexual fluidity, and same-sex sexual acts were decriminalized in the country in 1871. Today, same-sex unions are federally recognized and same-sex marriages are performed in 18 of Mexico’s 31 states. LGBTQ+ couples are also free to adopt children. Thanks to a pair of rulings in 2015 and 2016 by Mexico’s highest judicial body, laws banning gay marriage and gay adoption in Mexico were declared unconstitutional. This year, Congress voted to ban so-called “conversion therapies.”

Although Mexico is generally very gay friendly, it should be noted that some regions are more so friendly than others. Mexico City’s Zona Rosa — which spans 16 blocks and is home to more than 200 gay-owned businesses — rivals San Francisco’s Castro District. Other parts of Mexico, such as Guadalajara, Monterrey, Los Cabos, Puerto Vallarta and Tijuana, are also considered extremely welcoming.

Nowadays, a trip to Mexico often means visiting the country’s capital, so it’s worth asking: is Mexico City safe for LGBTQ+ travelers? The answer is yes. In fact, it may be one of the most gay-friendly cities in the Americas. The city’s annual Pride festival, which debuted in 1978, attracts several hundred thousand people, while other cities and towns also draw large crowds for annual festivities.

Mexico is the sixth most visited vacation destination in the world, and most of the country is very LGBTQ+ friendly. But to make your gay vacation even more special, stay in a gay-friendly space. In Mexico, there are several cities and destinations known for being welcoming to the LGBTQ+ community. We’ve included some of the best below.

Mexico City 

Mexico’s capital is recognized as one of the most open and progressive cities in Latin America in terms of LGBTQ+ rights. There are many bars, clubs, restaurants and events aimed at the LGBTQ+ community in neighborhoods such as Zona Rosa and Condesa. Here are a few of its more famous bars: 

• Tom’s Leather Bar: A gay men-only bar with dance music, cocktails and a late-night party atmosphere. It has a leather aesthetic and a cozy atmosphere for the leather community.
• El Almacen: One of the oldest gay bars in Mexico City, it continues to attract guys who look like they could handle heavy machinery with themed parties, drag nights and events.
• Guilt: Perfect for dancing, this place is only open on Saturday nights from 11 p.m. to 6 a.m. Tip: Say  “Vania” when paying the entrance fee for a discount.

Guadalajara 

This Bajío city has a vibrant LGBTQ+ scene and is famous for its annual Pride march, which attracts thousands of people. Zona Chapultepec and Zona Rosa are popular areas for LGBTQ+ nightlife and events. Visit in February to get involved with Guadalajara’s month-long Carnival celebrations marking the start of Lent.

• California’s Bar: A favorite bar for locals that attracts a diverse crowd, from cowboys to college students. Housed in a historic Spanish colonial building the thick concrete walls are packed each weekend with Guadalajara’s dancing gays amongst giant video screens.
• Voltio: Catering exclusively to men, this lounge has soft lighting and nice decor to boot. Voltio is known for its energetic underwear parties, leather scene and strippers — who bare all!

Puerto Vallarta 

Jalisco’s Pacific coast hub is a tourist destination known for its acceptance of the LGBTQ+ community. The Romantic Zone is the heart of the LGBTQ+ scene in Puerto Vallarta, with a wide variety of gay-friendly bars, clubs and restaurants. The city’s gay clubs are outstanding and always busy. 

There’s a huge variety of establishments, so you can enjoy everything from relaxed cocktail bars to strip clubs. Many bars also sell Purple Hand, a domestically produced beer marketed to the LGBTQ+ population. Winter sees Puerto Vallarta at its busiest, with top drag performers from Provincetown escaping the chill of the U.S. northeast and descending on the city’s myriad gay-run venues, bars and clubs.

• La Noche: One of the largest and most popular clubs in Puerto Vallarta, with multiple floors, varied music and drag shows.
• CC Slaughters: Offers a mix of pop music, themed events and drag shows in a lively and festive atmosphere.
• Reinas Bar: This bar is known for its drag shows and its festive and cozy atmosphere.

Mérida 

Although more conservative than the other cities on this list, Mérida has been developing an active and visible LGBTQ+ population in recent years. Neighborhoods such as Santiago and Santa Ana are known for being more welcoming. As for the gay bars Merida has in store, most are located downtown, on Calle 60, but it’s easy to meet like-minded people in the many cantinas, restaurants and bars around town, you’ll find acceptance and friendly tour operators to help ensure your time is memorable for all the right reasons.

• Casa Chica: This relaxed, queer-friendly eatery offers a laid-back space to grab brunch by day and a few cocktails after sundown! Enjoy a decadent slice of chocolate mousse while sipping on an Aperol spritz before hitting the dance floor. 
• Casa Pompi: A queer-friendly underground dance club offering a unique space to party til the sun comes up! Enjoy a drink on the rooftop patio before heading below to boogie the night away. 
• Mezcaleria La Fundación: Start your night off by getting a drink at this local cantina specializing in mezcal. They often feature live bands playing anything from funk to reggaeton and DJs that spin into the night.  

Playa del Carmen 

This Riviera Maya tourist destination has gained popularity among the LGBTQ+ population due to its relaxed and tolerant atmosphere. Quinta Avenida is the main place for nightlife and has several gay-friendly bars and clubs. This street is also home to the annual Playa Pride festival, a week-long celebration of LGBTQ+ culture and rights.

• Club 69: A bar and club with electronic music, drag shows and a vibrant atmosphere. The club is a popular spot for drag performances.
• Habana Night Club: This gay bar in Playa del Carmen is closer to the federal highway than to the beach. It is distinguished by its good music, good cocktails, food options and, above all, lots of local people looking for fun.

These are just a few examples, but in general, most major cities and tourist destinations in Mexico tend to be quite inclusive and welcoming towards the LGBTQ+ community. The scene can vary by city and season, so it’s always a good idea to do some research before heading out and connecting with the local LGBTQ+ population by contacting local LGBTQ+ organizations or online communities to get insider tips on the best LGBTQ+ friendly establishments and events.

Camila Sánchez Bolaño is a journalist, feminist, bookseller, lecturer, and cultural promoter and is Editor in Chief of Newsweek en Español magazine.

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Worn and weary, the tribe eventually stumbled upon the Valley of Mexico. Lo and behold, there it was! The eagle perched on a prickly pear cactus, devouring a snake. Sitting atop a small island in the middle of a giant, shimmering lake. The lake was guarded by a string of mountains and volcanoes, including Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. The pilgrims were thrilled. It only took 100 years.

The small island in the center of Lake Texcoco was situated close to another island in the same lake. The people settled here just as Huitzilopochtli had instructed, using dried mud, stone, and limestone plaster to build a vast kingdom made up of temples, marketplaces, schools, and homes. The two islands eventually fused to become Tenochtitlan, Mesoamerica’s most grand civilization, and the people became known as the Mexica (Aztec).

Grand Lake Texcoco, home of Tenochtitlán

The fact that Tenochtitlán thrived as a kingdom in the middle of a lake is extraordinary. Think of it like a bowl. Only the bowl is set in Mexico’s Central Highlands and is completely surrounded by mountains lacking any form of drainage. Each year would come an intense rainy season and this de facto “bowl” would fill with water, overflow, and flood the darn place. 

But what Huitzilopochtli wants, Huitzilopochtli gets, and the Mexica were determined to find a solution. They decided to work with what nature had given them. Instead of fighting the lake (like the Spanish would eventually do), they used the abundance of water to their agricultural advantage, understanding that “floods were a precondition for a large part of the basin’s agricultural productivity,” according to the University of Texas at Austin.

So they began to build. The Mexica ingeniously constructed a system of canals, locks, and dikes to control water levels and prevent overflow. This divided salt water from fresh water, effectively creating two lakes. Where the water was brackish, a system of artificial land plots was created upon which maíz, beans, greens and onions could flourish. These small rectangular farms were known as chinampas, separated by canals through which canoes could transport newly harvested produce to the kingdom. Plots like this were probably not invented by Mexica but were enhanced in Tenochtitlan’s expansion.

Because the mountains contained abundant amounts of drinking water, a 16km aqueduct was designed to supply the citizens with hydration. Four major causeways were built linking Tenochtitlán to mainland Mexico for trade and economic stability. By the time the Spanish arrived 200 years later, Tenochtitlán’s 200,000 inhabitants made it one of the biggest and most vibrant cities in the world. It was awesome, in the true sense of the word, beguiling the conquistadors. 

How do we know? Hernan Cortes said so. Yeah yeah, he was a bit of a boaster. Still, historians believe his opening description of Tenochtitlán in his second letter to the King of Spain is accurate:

“I am fully aware that the account will appear so wonderful as to be deemed scarcely worthy of credit; since even when we who have seen these things with our own eyes, are yet so amazed as to be unable to comprehend their reality.”

Unfortunately, the Spanish did not maintain it as such

The Spanish conquest initiated an almost-total disappearance of Lake Texcoco. Instead of working with nature like the Mexica had done so successfully for centuries, the colonists took up arms against it. Not because they wanted to save Tenochtitlan in all its glory, but rather because they wanted to create a European-style hub by turning the dikes and canals into squares and streets. Flooding would threaten the new city’s property value.

In 1607, a project known as Desagüe began. By constructing their own drainage system, the Spanish believed they could control the lake’s water levels. 40,000 local workers were rounded up and given hand tools to complete the dangerous job of excavating over 14 miles of channels and a 4 mile tunnel, 175 feet deep. 

In 1629, a flood destroyed a significant percentage of the city, proving that the project had major flaws. Construction continued anyway through 1900. The city spread across the Valley of Mexico and usurped what was once a beautiful, bountiful environment for plants, animals, and people. 

Lake Texcoco all but died

And now, we’re sitting on top of its grave. A waterless pit that was once a magical kingdom.

On the bright side, we get to enjoy one of the world’s greatest metropolises. 

On the not so bright side, we don’t have enough water. Oh, the irony.

The failed construction of the Desagüe system has resulted in a lack of water. CDMX still sees heavy rains and occasional flooding, but the channels and tunnels are ineffective in collecting the overflow for reservoirs. The lack of penetrable surfaces block rainwater from filtering into cisterns underneath. Only about 8% of the flood water can be obtained, whilst the remaining 92% flows freely into polluted rivers and the city’s sewage system. 

Leading to yet another grave consequence. The city is sinking. Lack of reservoirs and failure to implement a rainwater collection system have propelled officials to over-pump the underground aquifers for drinking water. The extraction process weakens the clay beds on which Mexico City sits. It drops 1 meter (3.2 feet) every year and that figure will increase as the population swells. 

Want to see it with your own eyes? In CDMX’s Centro Historico, the buildings of the Zócalo and the surrounding area are noticeably crooked.

Moreover, draining Lake Texcoco significantly altered the environment. The region was once teeming with waterfowl, algae, fish, reptiles and insects. It bred reeds and water lilies, cooled the valley through evaporation, and contributed to cloud formation and precipitation. Lake Texcoco was vital in maintaining a balanced atmosphere.

However, there are plans to bring it back

AMLO is overseeing the development of Lake Texcoco Ecological Park, a 14,000-hectare natural reserve on the site of the former Lake Texcoco on which sports fields, skateparks, restaurants, and a medical university will also be built. Its purpose is to preserve the flora and fauna that once flourished here through protected wetlands. It is scheduled to open later this year.

Want to see what Tenochtitlan looked like at its peak? Check out Thomas Kole’s incredible reconstruction of the brilliant Mesoamerican empire.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

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The high speed highway connecting Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta has been in the works for more than 10 years. Originally intended for completion in 2014, the final date for completion is expected a full 10 years later in July 2024. Currently, the majority of the highway is complete from Guadalajara to Las Varas. What remains is the final stretch connecting Bucerias to Puerto Vallarta. 

The highway is a significant development for the tourism landscape in the states of Jalisco and Nayarit. Covering more than 86 kilometers, the modern roadway includes 45 bridges, seven interchanges, three tunnels, and three viaducts. It is expected to handle 6,000 vehicles a day. The cost between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta is roughly $1,000 pesos each way, which may seem steep, but saves valuable expenses if traveling with the family.

Once completed, the highway between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta will shorten the trip to about two and a half hours, shaving the original drive time nearly in half. This opens up a world of possibilities when it comes to exploring the state of Jalisco, as well as the interior and coastline of the neighboring state, Nayarit.

Travelers can start their journey in either direction, but I recommend starting in Guadalajara first. There’s something appealing about starting with the culture, history, and cosmopolitan energy of one of Mexico’s most dynamic cities before ending a scenery-packed road trip by lounging on a beautiful beach on the Pacific coast. 

Guadalajara: The Soul of Jalisco

Your journey begins in the vibrant metropolis of Guadalajara, a city pulsating with cultural energy, rich history, and fantastic cuisine. It’s considered the “Silicon Valley” of Mexico, which has drawn a tech-savvy, forward-thinking culture, resulting in a funky arts scene and cafe culture. Still, Guadalajara is deeply rooted in its history and is known as the birthplace of some of Mexico’s most significant cultural icons like Mariachi, charrería, and tequila.

Highlights

• Historic Center: Explore the historic heart of Guadalajara, home to architectural marvels such as the majestic Guadalajara Cathedral, the ornate Government Palace, and the iconic Hospicio Cabañas.
• Mariachi Plaza: Soak up the lively atmosphere of Mariachi Plaza, where traditional mariachi bands serenade visitors with soul-stirring melodies and vibrant performances.
• Tlaquepaque Artisan Village: Indulge in a shopping spree at Tlaquepaque, a charming artisan village renowned for its exquisite handicrafts, colorful markets, and authentic Mexican cuisine.

Tequila: Spirit of Mexico

Continuing on your journey, the town of Tequila beckons with its aromatic fields of blue agave and rich heritage deeply rooted in Mexico’s cultural fabric. 

Highlights

• Tequila Tastings: Embark on a sensory journey through the world of tequila with guided tastings at renowned distilleries such as Jose Cuervo and Casa Sauza.
• Agave Landscape: Explore the picturesque agave landscape surrounding Tequila, where rows of blue agave plants stretch towards the horizon against the backdrop of the Tequila Volcano.
• National Tequila Museum: Dive into the fascinating history and production process of tequila at the National Tequila Museum, where interactive exhibits and guided tours offer insights into this iconic spirit.

Compostela: A Glimpse of Mexican Magic

A large chunk of the highway passes through the state of Nayarit — a state rich in mountain villages, indigenous communities, coffee culture, and a spectacular coastline. Make a stop in the enchanting town of Compostela. Tucked away amidst lush greenery and rolling hills, Compostela exudes an irresistible charm, earning its status as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos.

Must-See Sights:

• Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church: Admire the exquisite colonial architecture of the Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church, a cultural and historical landmark dating back to the 16th century.
• Plaza Principal: Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of Plaza Principal, where locals gather to socialize, shop, and enjoy traditional street food.
• Cerro del Sangangüey: Hike up Cerro del Sangangüey for panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, including lush forests, rolling hills, and the iconic Nayarit countryside.

Puerto Vallarta: Where the Pacific Meets Paradise

The journey ends on the palm-fringed beaches of Puerto Vallarta. A fusion of relaxation, adventure, and buzzy nightlife, it’s the perfect place to end the journey.

Puerto Vallarta is brimming with attractions. One of the most-visited destinations in all of Mexico, travelers can spend their days beach-hopping, exploring the dynamic restaurant scene, or taking additional road trips from Puerto Vallarta to surrounding towns and villages. If you only have a weekend in town, here is some inspiration for the perfect weekend in Puerto Vallarta.

If you’ve already tried parts of the Puerto Vallarta — Guadalajara highway, let us know how you found it.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com. 

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Starting Nov. 9, WestJet will begin its new series of flights with a once-weekly flight to Tulum’s Felipe Carrillo Puerto International Airport from Calgary as well as three arrivals per week to the beach destination from Toronto. Both flights will run until April 27, 2025.

The flights to Tulum make WestJet the second airline from Canada to fly to the Caribbean resort city since Air Canada inaugurated three flights to Tulum in May.

Jorge Molina Pérez, director of Tulum’s Tourism and Economy Department, said the new Canada-Tulum flights can strengthen Tulum’s image as a sunny beach destination steeped in Maya culture, an image that should be promoted to travelers from Canada, the United States and Europe, he said. 

“Calgary and Toronto are cities that are home to travelers with good purchasing power, and they are accustomed to taking seasonal vacations to escape the cold weather,” Molina said. 

“We must welcome this new airline that will be flying 737 airliners to Tulum,” he said. “WestJet is betting on broadening its market, and so it is incumbent on us here in Tulum to learn more about the Canadian visitors who will arrive thanks to this new announcement.”

In conjunction with the new Canada-Tulum flights, WestJet Vacations is offering flight and accommodations packages to 35 major hotels close to the airport, the airline reported.

WestJet also introduced several new flights to hot destinations from various airports across Canada, including two additional destinations in Mexico.

The Calgary-based airline will offer a once-weekly direct flight from Winnipeg to Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, beginning on Nov. 9 and wrapping up on April 26, 2025. 

The airline will also offer once-weekly flight service from Kelowna, British Columbia, to the Pacific coast city of Mazatlán from Dec. 13 through April 18, 2025. 

With reports from La Jornada and Riviera Maya News

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Among the curiosities that Wright encountered during his two field trips in the 1970s to the woods around the little town of Tala, were rock formations that less scientific nature lovers have dubbed “fairy footstools.”

Typically they look like nicely rounded tree stumps, perhaps a foot or two high. The casual observer first sees them as cut trees, but on closer observation, they discover that they are made of stone.

In his book on Volcanic Successions, published in 1987, Wright calls them steam pipes or paleo-fumarolic pipes, formed eons ago when water vapor percolated upward through thick layers of hot ash.

 “The steam bubbles,” says Wright, “altered the ash chemically, precipitating minerals harder than the surrounding ash. Wherever bubbles rose, smooth cylinders of rock perhaps over 20 meters in length, were created beneath the surface.”

The Great Wall of Pipes

The most notable collection of steam pipes is conveniently located near Parque Recreativo La Hiedra, a campsite in the Primavera Forest located 21 kilometers west of Guadalajara.  Alongside this park runs El Río Salado, the Salty River, whose waters are a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius.

The park has dammed the river in two places to create large pools for swimming and has an extensive flat area, perfect for camping.

The Great Wall of Pipes is located 300 meters downstream. It is about 70 meters long and 25 high and is filled with hundreds of big cylinders of rock, all of them lying on their sides. This has left scientists baffled. The theory of steam bubbles rising through hot ash would result in vertical pipes, not horizontal ones. But similar walls of horizontal pipes — not as large as this one — have been found all around the Tala area, casting doubt on the theory of how the pipes were formed.

 “New theories are being proposed,” says Wright, “theories that the percolation was downward — or perhaps every which way. More study is required.”

Just how it was formed remains a mystery, but one thing is certain, adds Wright: “Nothing like the Great Wall has ever been described in the literature. It appears to be unique.”

Ghosts, goblins, and happiness

Apart from ”fairy footstools,” the environs of Tala host “goblins.” These are bizarrely shaped rocks named after similar features seen in Goblin Canyon Park, New Mexico. Unlike the pipes, these are roughly textured rocks that may take many shapes, for example, tall stately spires or curvy meandering walls, which you’d swear were man-made. Other bizarre forms may remind you of a sofa, an armchair, or a spooky version of SpongeBob Squarepants.

The best place to see the full range of these weird formations is a failed subdivision called Villa Felicidad, located directly east of Tala. Here you can drive to a path through what I call The Garden of Ghostly Delights which will take you to a tall spire known as el “Rey de los Duendes,” the King of the Goblins.

Along this short two-kilometer trail, you can see the full gamut of rock formations created by the bubbling action of steam trapped under a blanket of hot ash nearly 100,000 years ago.

The bizarre Martian Eyes

Of particular interest is the Little Wall of Martian Eyes. Yes, it’s another set of horizontally oriented pipes that definitely look like they come from another planet.

This trail parallels el “Río De Las Ánimas,” the River of Ghosts, so named because it runs through many kilometers of strange stone figures which, if seen at dusk might convince anyone that they had wandered into the realm of the undead.

Because the River of Ghosts is born inside the protected Primavera Forest, it is completely free of pollution from human sources and its mild temperature invites you to jump right in.

This path, by the way, forms one small section of a great bicycle trail called La Ruta del Gigante, The Route of the Giant. Maintained and promoted by the city of Tala, this 20-kilometer loop offers the perfect way to acquaint you with the Ghost and Goblin Park.

The Agua Dulce River is born

At the northern edge of the Kingdom of Ghosts and Goblins lies the Agua Dulce Park and Campsite. This is perhaps the best place to camp inside the Primavera Forest. The park is named after “the Río Agua Dulce ,” or Sweet Water River, which originates within the confines of this campsite. Drinkable, delicious, crystal clear, cold water bubbles out of the ground here, a curiosity in an area dominated by hot rivers.

Besides a natural swimming hole, this site offers restrooms, ponies, a zipline, and a high watchtower from which you can see clear across the forest to Tequila Volcano on the horizon.

A hike from Agua Dulce to the Salty River (the continuation of Rio Caliente) will take you past a nice selection of goblins and pipes. The pipes are large and lie neither horizontally nor vertically but somewhere in between, just to give the researchers another headache.

The Ghost and Goblin Park is huge, covering an area of more than 80 square kilometers.

A unique natural marvel

“The next largest place displaying these phenomena is Goblin Canyon New Mexico, which measures less than a square kilometer in size, a magnitude smaller than what you will find in Jalisco,” says John Wright.

Could there be another site like this somewhere else in the world?

 “We’ve been looking,” says Wright. “New Zealand has the perfect conditions for this, but if they had pipes and goblins, we would have seen photos by now. South America is another good candidate, but it’s crawling with geologists and none have reported anything like this. At the moment, Tala seems the world champion: the largest paleo-fumarolic area known on the planet.”

 “And then, it has the Great Wall of Pipes,” adds Wright, with a sparkle in his eye. “Where else are you going to find something like that?” 

John Pint has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.

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