Chef Asai is known for running two very successful ventures: First, one of the most authentic Japanese kitchens in the capital, with an outpost in Mérida. Second, an engaging TikTok account where he experiments with new recipes, using fresh ingredients from the local tianguis and imports from Japan. His dishes are a fascinating fusion of beloved Mexican classics like blue corn, mole, nopales, and dried chiles, incorporated with Japanese wagyu, miso, and sushi. 

A scroll through his social media accounts takes you down a mouthwatering rabbit hole of his personal kitchen “experiments,” filmed in quick succession, taste tested by the king himself, and then rated. Not normally one to keep entertained by reels or TikTok, I found myself glued to the screen. I spent far too long watching him effortlessly concoct colorful plates of blue corn shrimp tempura served with lime and salt (which he proceeded to rate a measly 3 out of 5, leaving me to feel relatively sure that we do not have similar palettes) and lime ramen with chicken whose decadent-looking broth sparkled with freshly squeezed lime and an anchovy base (which he rated 5 out of 5). Chef Asai also tested a spring roll stuffed with huitlacoche and topped with salsa verde (rated 3.5 out of 5), and his version of Mole Tokatsu, fried pork stuffed with nopales and Oaxacan cheese, smothered in a miso-mole sauce (which he rated a 6 out of 5 and described as “a toda madre”, aka freaking awesome).

Every once in a while, a recipe will be deemed good enough to carve a permanent spot on the restaurant’s menu, delighting repeat diners who swear by his culinary magic. But despite Asai Kaiseki Cuisine’s current popularity, it wasn’t always an easy ride. 

Bringing Japanese food to Mexico

“I started by offering just a tasting menu and the diners weren’t expecting that. They wanted California rolls.” Asai notes, adding that introducing Mexico to authentic Japanese food was (and still often is) a challenge. Consumers are looking for dragon rolls, salmon and avocado rolls, and all sorts of maki rolls with cream cheese — bites that really don’t exist in Japan.

To top it off, traditional Japanese ingredients are either difficult to find or incredibly expensive to import. This may have partly influenced Japanese cuisine chefs to incorporate Mexican flavors into their menus. Chef Asai commonly uses nopales, sal de chapulín, and sal de jamaica to spice things up. 

The Japanese-Mexican fusion trend doesn’t cease to exist outside the walls of Chef Asai’s coveted culinary coves. Santo in Roma Norte includes seared hamachi & Oaxacan chocolate nigiri on the menu. Crudo in Oaxaca City serves nori-wrapped tacos. North of Los Cabos, visitors can chow down on a teriyaki chicken and pineapple roll wrapped in a Baja-sourced basil leaf at Noah. 

And you can do the same, right in your kitchen.

Using inspiration from various Japanese restaurants in Mexico City and food blogs, I’ve compiled a short list of easy-to-make gastronomic delights that will whisk you away to a vibrant izakaya in Osaka for a few blissful moments before zipping you back to a lively square in Guadalajara.

Nopal nigiri (inspired by Asai Kasai Cuisine)

Ingredients:

2 cups sushi rice (bought or homemade with rice vinegar, sugar, and salt) cooled to room temperature

2 – 3 nopal cactus paddles 

Wasabi (paste or freshly grated)

Soy Sauce

Instructions:

Scrape nopales free of thorns and rinse. Boil until tender and the slimy texture has evaporated. Let cool and slice into strips about 2 inches long and 0.75 inches thick.

Shape sushi rice into 12 mounds about 1.5 inches long and 0.5 inches thick.

Put a dash of wasabi on top of each rice mound.

Wrap a strip of nopal over the rice mound.

Optional: If desired, add a slice of sushi-grade white fish or cooked shrimp rubbed with chili on top of the nopal.

Serve with soy sauce for dipping.

Miso and Chile Poblano Sauce 

Ingredients:

2 poblano peppers

2 tablespoons white or yellow miso paste

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 tablespoon honey or agave nectar

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt to taste

Water (as needed)

Instructions:

Preheat the broiler in your oven. Place poblano peppers on a baking sheet and broil, turning occasionally, until skin is charred and blistered.

Transfer roasted peppers into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let steam for about 10 minutes. 

Peel off the charred skin, remove seeds, and chop flesh into tiny pieces.

In a blender or food processor, combine peppers, miso paste, rice vinegar, honey or agave nectar, minced garlic, and olive oil.

Blend until smooth, adding water if needed.

Serve over grilled meat or roasted vegetables.

Chicken Teriyaki (recipe by Chef Asai)

Ingredients: 

1 chicken breast

Flour for dusting

1 tsp Oil

Salt and pepper

60ml sake

60ml soy sauce

40g sugar

Instructions:

Season the chicken breast with salt and pepper. Coat with flour and sauté in a little oil. When half cooked, add the sake, soy sauce, and sugar, and continue cooking until caramelized.

Japanese Tuna Tacos

Ingredients:

1.5lb sushi-grade tuna

1/4 cup ponzu sauce

1 tbsp vegetable oil

Ponzu-wasabi mayo 

12 — 14 corn tortillas

Limes to taste

Optional: shredded cabbage, carrot, and lettuce slaw

Instructions:

In a plastic bag, marinate raw tuna in ponzu sauce and chill for 1 hour

Grill or sear fish for about 3 minutes or until cooked on the outside and rare on the inside. Turn once.

Make ponzu-wasabi mayo by mixing 1/2 cup mayo, 2 tbsp ponzu, and 1 tsp wasabi paste.

Serve on warm tortillas with a drizzle of ponzu wasabi mayo.

Squeeze lime and add slaw if desired. 

Have you thought of a way for Mexico to reinvent Japanese food? Let us know in the comments!

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

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While we tend to think of the country as having a monolithic mestizo heritage (a blend of Indigenous and Spanish), there are important additions left behind by groups of immigrants that have shaped the country’s culture, art and its cuisine. 

Middle Eastern immigrants brought tacos árabes to Puebla which would go on to become Mexico’s most ubiquitous taco — tacos al pastor. Lebanese immigrants brought the kibbe to the Yucatan, now a popular roadside street food, and in Mexico City, one Japanese immigrant invented what would become one of Mexico’s most beloved snacks — cacahuates japoneses or Japanese peanuts.

Yashigei Nakatani: From Japan to Mexico

Japan and Mexico have diplomatic ties stretching back to the 1800s when both countries signed a Treaty of Friendship, Trade and Navigation. By the time World War II rolled around, there was already a nascent Japanese population in Mexico — in Manzanillo, many were fishermen, in Guadalajara Japanese workers came to work on the railroad, and of course, many arrived in Mexico City, the country’s capital which held the most economic opportunities for recent immigrants. 

When Japan bombed Pearl Harbor, the United States pressured the Mexican government to move Japanese immigrants away from the ports and the borders, and many in the community were deported on the alleged suspicion that they were spies.

That was the case with Heijiro Kato, the factory owner and boss of Yoshigei Nakatani Moriguchi, a young immigrant working in Kato’s button factory in Mexico City.

Nakatani had been in Mexico since 1932. He arrived and rented a room in the capital from his future mother-in-law, in the downtown neighborhood of La Merced, determined to make something of himself in his new adoptive city.

Nakatani soon met and fell in love with his landlady’s daughter Emma Ávila, who spied him singing on the rooftop of the building they shared and began to teach him Spanish. By 1941, they had five children and when Nakatani lost his job at the factory, he needed to find a way to make an income fast.

A new variation on a Japanese confection

Growing up in his hometown of Sumotoshi, Nakatani had learned how to make traditional Japanese sweets and candies. He figured he would try his hand at selling confections, so he and his wife started making muéganos, a Mexican candy made from flour, nuts, and coated in honey. Selling them out of their house on Carretones Street in the Merced, the candies were a hit, so they decided to expand and try to replicate a popular snack from Nakatani’s childhood — peanuts covered in a coating made from rice flour with soy sauce, and a touch of sugar.

Rice flour wasn’t available, so he replaced it with wheat flour, but the resulting snack was as good as the original — slow-toasted until perfectly golden brown, with slight salty spice and a hint of sweetness.

Everyone in the family eventually formed part of the business — his children helped to design the logo, pack the peanuts into their tiny cellophane bags, and run the machinery that they would eventually acquire to keep up with demand. In the neighborhood they were known as “the Japanese guy’s” peanuts and so Nakatani decided to name his business Cacahuate Nipón in the 1950s.

A family business and legacy

Business boomed and by 1970, Cacahuate Nipón officially incorporated and moved out of their space in the Merced neighborhood to produce on a larger scale. Unfortunately, the recipe for Japanese peanuts was never patented and during the 1980s, Cacahuate Nipon faced competition from big industrial corporations that were also making the snack, placing them in some of the country’s biggest convenience store chains.

The family overcame this challenge by expanding production to other popular sweets, like chamoy candies. They were extremely successful and were bought by Totis (part of La Costeña) in 2017, after which they started a new company called Dulces Komiru.

More recently, continuing the culinary legacy of his family, chef Eno Nakatani, grandson of Yashigei Nakatani, opened Fideo Gordo, a Japanese-Mexican noodle shop in Mexico City’s fashionable Colonia Roma.

Here he makes fusion dishes like ramen in birria broth and pork chicharrón topped with shrimp ceviche. Fideo Gordo is just one of the newest examples of Mexico’s great gastronomic melting pot, inspired by the many cultures that have expanded the country’s palate to the delight of locals and visitors alike.

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.

This article is part of Mexico News Daily’s “Japan in Focus” series. Read the other articles from the series here. 

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In Mexico, there are some ingredients considered strange and exotic, even by locals. Some of these were eaten in pre-Hispanic times, while some have been created more recently. Nevertheless, they all are a part of the longstanding artform that is Mexican cuisine. Don’t be afraid to try these!

Chapulines

Grasshoppers are the most widely known of what could be considered “exotic” Mexican cuisine. There are many different types of edible chapulines found all around the country, but they’re traditionally associated with the state of Oaxaca. One of the most popular ways to eat them is on a traditional Oaxacan tlayuda. Although small, chapulines are high in vitamins and minerals. They’re acidic and crunchy, and delicious on their own.

Iguanas

If you’ve gone to a Mexican beach, there’s a high chance that you have seen an iguana trotting around. They are especially common in the southeast, the region that took to also eating them. Some people say it tastes like chicken.

Maguey Worms

If you’re a mezcal enthusiast, you’ve probably seen one of these little guys lying at the bottom of a bottle. Maybe you’ve even eaten it with your last shot! But you might not know that maguey worms are eaten outside of mezcal, too. 

There are actually two types of maguey worms. The red ones are moth larvae that infest magueys and eat them, while the white ones are butterfly caterpillars that grow onthe leaves and roots of magueys. They are expensive because you can only get three or four out of a maguey, which dies after the harvest. They are most commonly consumed in Hidalgo, but also eaten in other states like Tlaxcala. Eat them fried, with butter or olive oil, in a taco.

Escamoles

Some people call it the  Mexican caviar: ant eggs. Delicious and strange at the same time, escamoles have been eaten here all the way back to pre-Columbian times, which is why they can be easily found in areas closer to historic ruins, like Teotihuacán. The dish’s name actually comes from the Nahuatl words for “ant” and “stew.”

You can find escamoles in soups and tacos, or cooked with butter, onion and garlic. They’re packed with protein and are quite nutritious.

Huitlacoche

Once upon a time, France discovered moldy cheese was actually delicious. Mexicans realized the same thing about corn. Huitlacoche, known as corn smut to English speakers, is a very dark, greenish-blue fungus that grows on ears of corn infected with a pathogenic fungus. It is considered a “manjar” — a delicacy — and is most commonly eaten inside quesadillas or tacos.

Scorpions

Scorpions are found in many places in Mexico, especially areas that are hotter or more humid. This is especially true for Durango, a northern state that has become known for serving these somewhat terrifying arachnids. Although they’re not necessarily a traditional dish, Durango is the place to go for them. Scorpions can be served fried, inside a taco, or on a stick.

Chicatana ants

Chicatana Ants are another Oaxacan delicacy. These huge ants — they grow to between 1.8 and 3 centimeters — are toasted in hot pans and develop a crunchy consistency. Although they can be eaten straight after toasting, one of the most common ways to eat them is to grind them into a salsa. Like many of the other items on this list, they are high in vitamins and minerals. You can find them mainly in Oaxaca, but natives of Veracruz and Tabasco enjoy chicatanas as well.

Jumiles

These are a typical dish of the Pueblo Mágico of Taxco, in Guerrero. They are flying insects that are eaten either inside a sauce or with lime and salt, and — you guessed it — in tacos. Some say they taste like cinnamon, which could be because Jumiles eat the branches and sticks of oak trees. Either way, it’s a strong taste that you either love or you hate.

Collecting jumiles is quite difficult, as they live quite high in the canopy and are fast fliers. Apart from a delicacy, they are also considered sacred by some people in Taxco, as they are considered to be dead loved ones that fly in to visit.

Cuetlas

Another pre-Columbian meal, cuetlas — also known as chiancuetla and tepolchichic — are butterfly larvae. These larvae grow on a select few types of trees during the  rainy season. They are eaten mainly in Puebla, but you’ll also find them in Guerrero and Veracruz. Their taste is delicious and similar to that of chapulines. Plus, they are rich in protein, iron and vitamin B. 

The best way to enjoy cuetla is grilled and inside tacos with guacamole.

Of course, the list does not end here. With some names more eye-catching than others, things like eye tacos, rattlesnakes, pejelagarto fish, rat soup, lake shrimp and brains can also be found in different parts of the country. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a little trip around, do some research and try one — or all!

Montserrat Castro Gómez is a freelance writer and translator from Querétaro, México.

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To “molcajetear” — Mexico has a knack for turning nouns into verbs — means pressing and grinding ingredients against the walls of the molcajete, imparting a unique flavor and texture.

Its rough surface is perfect for grinding and crushing a variety of ingredients. Perfect for creating unique flavors and textures, the molcajete is a beloved tool for making salsas, guacamole, dips and marinades. It’s also ideal for grinding spices and herbs, releasing their aromatic oils. Even nuts and seeds can be ground to create flavorful pastes and powders. The molcajete’s rustic charm and efficient grinding capabilities make it a cornerstone of authentic Mexican cooking.

Traditional molcajetes have always been made of volcanic stone, which is natural, non-toxic and safe for food processing. Crafting a molcajete involves a centuries-old carving technique. When you buyone made of volcanic stone, you’re supporting artisans’ craftsmanship and livelihoods.

How to tell if a molcajete is authentic

Buying an authentic molcajete isn’t just about bragging rights. Nowadays, there are many cement replicas for sale that can deceive buyers. The big reason to avoid cement molcajetes is that they’re not safe for cooking. Cement wears away when ground, releasing toxins and paint into your food. So, how can you tell if the molcajete you’re eyeing is made of volcanic stone or cement?

Volcanic stone has pores, since it was once lava cooling off, passing tiny sulfuric bubbles to its surface. Some molcajetes will have a lot of wide pores, while others may have very small orifices. However, all of them have a rugged surface that makes them effective for grinding. A very smooth surface without pores is usually an indicator of a cement piece. 

A cement molcajete will absorb water and become evenly soaked, while volcanic stone holds water without absorbing it. However, some volcanic stone pieces have too many wide pores and can leak. While this type may still be an authentic piece, it won’t be a good option for salsa making, as the liquid will filter out. 

The ultimate test is curing the molcajete, as one made of volcanic stone will immediately release sediments as part of the process.

How to cure your new molcajete before using

Molcajetes need to be cured before you use them, because the natural stone tends to release residues that you don’t want in your food. Curing for kitchen duty is a simple process involving rice, salt and a little elbow grease:

1. Thoroughly rinse and scrub your molcajete with a scrub brush.
2. Grind a handful of raw rice and coarse salt with the tejolote. The ground mix will come out a grayish color since it’s catching fine pieces of stone and sediment.
3. Repeat with new raw rice and coarse salt until this mix comes out white, signaling a that the curing process is complete.
4. Rinse with water. Voila! Your molcajete is ready to rock.

Salsa roja molcajeteada

There’s nothing quite like a salsa roja molcajeteada — oh yes, Mexico also loves turning nouns into adjectives. Here’s a simple recipe to get you started. Remember, salsas are an art form, not an exact science. Channel your inner maestro when picking the type and amount of ingredients you use.

3 red chilis

3 tomatoes

2 cloves garlic

1 pinch dried oregano

1 pinch salt

Fresh cilantro

1.   Roast the chiles, garlic, and tomatoes on a comal until softened.
2.   In your molcajete, grind coarse salt and garlic until smooth. Add remaining ingredients one by one and continue grinding until achieving your desired consistency.
3.   Gently grind the cilantro leaves as the last ingredient, leaving them somewhat whole. 
4.   If necessary, adjust with additional liquid ingredients like water, lemon juice or oil to suit your preferences.
5.   Serve your salsa in the molcajete for an authentic look and feel that’s sure to impress.

How to wash your molcajete after using

1. Rinse and use a scrub brush to remove the scraps of food that can get stuck in the stone’s pores. 
2. Fill with hot water and let it soak for about 15 minutes. 
3. Keep in mind that molcajetes absorb odors, so wash with a small amount of unscented soap if necessary. 
4. If your molcajete smells bad, rub with half a lime and let it sit for 10 minutes, then rinse with hot water.
5. To prevent mold, make sure your molcajete is completely dry before storing.

Molcajetes are more than just a tool

Molcajete can be used as a noun, a verb and an adjective. Why stop there? When you see molcajete as a dish on a menu, they’re offering you another level of deliciousness. 

A molcajete contains a medley of grilled meats, vegetables, cheese and salsa. This dish, meant to be shared, is served in a big warm molcajete in the center of the table. Everyone dives in with a warm tortilla in hand. It’s a joyful dining experience made special by the beauty of a molcajete overflowing with tasty goodies.

Here’s a fun tidbit: I’ve seen people find solace in the act of grinding with a molcajete. Rhythmically grinding stuff with your sheer force can release pent-up energy and emotions. Who knew that whipping up a sassy salsa could be so therapeutic?

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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The resort city on the Mexican Pacific coast has been my family’s vacationing spot for decades. While we’ve witnessed the city’s growth thanks to tourism and the expat community, there are two things that Puerto Vallarta has managed to preserve: the small-town feeling and its traditional and delicious food. 

Thanks to its great location, Puerto Vallarta enjoys an amazing array of seafood all year round. The local catch in Puerto Vallarta includes shrimp, sailfish, swordfish, marlin, bream, sawfish, snapper, and many more.

While most of these delicacies can be found along Mexico’s Pacific coast, each region has its own recipes. That is why all seafood restaurants in non-coastal cities in Mexico specify what type of seafood they prepare (i.e. seafood Sinaloa style or Cabo style). 

Today, I’m going to share two staple Puerto Vallarta style seafood recipes (also known as Nayarit style, despite the fact Puerto Vallarta is in Jalisco). If you read through the end, you’ll find bonus alcoholic beverage recipes to pair with these delicious dishes.

Zarandeado Fish

Serves 6-8

Pescado zarandeado is hands down the most famous dish in Puerto Vallarta and the wider Bahía de Banderas region. Its name comes from the zaranda, a pit made of wood used to grill the fish. The secret of this grilled fish lies in the marinade, which is made up of several spices that blend to turn the fish a vivid red. If you don’t have a grill, you can cook this dish in an oven.

Ingredients:

1 whole red snapper, opened, scaled and cleaned

50 grams of achiote 

3 chiles de árbol, crushed

¼ onion

1 garlic clove, finely grated

Juice of 1 orange 

Juice of 1 lime (limón verde)

2 tablespoons white vinegar

1 cup water

1 tsp oregano 

Coarse salt and pepper to taste

100g butter 

Corn tortillas 

Preparation

Warm grill to medium heat or preheat oven to 180 Celsius (350F). 

For the adobo marinade, mix the achiote with chiles, lime juice, orange juice, vinegar, garlic, onion, water, oregano, salt and pepper. Season both sides of the fish fillets with salt and pepper, then brush the top side with melted butter. Place the fish fillet in a container and add the adobo sauce on the flesh side, making sure it covers the entire fish. Leave a little adobo on the side. 

Grill the fish with the skin side down until it is charred (about 8 to 12 minutes). Turn the fish and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes or until charred and the flesh can be easily removed. Add the remaining adobo to the flesh and turn to cook again for about 1 minute. 

If you cook it in the oven, cook it for 8-10 minutes or until the flesh can be easily removed. 

To serve, place the fish on a platter with the flesh upwards. Decorate with sliced onions and serve with tortillas to make tacos. Add your favorite salsa, serve with guacamole and squeeze lime on top. 

The adobo is also ideal for shrimp. 

Pickled Marlin Tacos or Tostadas 

6-7 tostadas  

Marlin tacos and tostadas are very popular in Puerto Vallarta — and extremely easy to prepare. They’re usually served as an appetizer before a pescado zarandeado or main dish. This recipe uses smoked marlin which you can easily find in any supermarket. 

Ingredients:

400g smoked marlin, shredded

2 onions, finely sliced

1/4 piece cabbage, finely sliced 

2 cloves garlic finely grated 

2 peeled carrots, shredded

3 bay leaves

1 chipotle chili

2 pickled jalapeño chiles and carrots with 2 tablespoons of pickled juice

Salt and pepper to taste 

Olive oil

Corn tortillas and tostadas 

Preparation

Place a pan over medium heat and sauté the onion slices until crystalized. Add coarse salt to taste to avoid the onions turning yellow. Once the onion is ready, add garlic and sauté for 1-2 minutes making sure the garlic doesn’t get burned.  

Add smoked marlin and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add bay leaves, season with pepper and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add carrots and cabbage, cook for 2-3 minutes, and add pickled chiles, carrots and juice. Sauté for 2-3 minutes and serve.  

Serve on a crispy tostada or on a tortilla to prepare a taco. You can add one pickled chili to each tostada and taco if you like it spicy. 

Provecho!

Bonus cocktail recipes

These marisco dishes pair perfectly with an iced-cold michelada or paloma.

Michelada 

The michelada is made up of two main ingredients: beer and clamato (tomato and clam)  juice.  

You’ll first need to frost the rim of your glass with lime and salt. Then, add 1 cup of Clamato and the juice of 2 lemons. Add Worcestershire sauce to taste, black seasoning sauce (salsa Maggi), Valentina and salt and pepper. I also like to add Tajin. 

Mix all the ingredients well. Add ice and beer and enjoy! 

Paloma 

The name of this tequila cocktail is apparently inspired by the mariachi song Paloma, which was traditionally sung in the cantinas where customers drank tequila with mineral water and grapefruit juice. 

Just as with the michelada, frost the rim of your glass with lime and salt. Add a shot of tequila (1-2 oz.) to a glass and mix with the juice of half a lime and a pinch of salt. Add ice and equal parts of pink grapefruit soda and mineral water. Mix well and enjoy.  

Salud!

Gabriela Solis is a Mexican lawyer turned full-time writer. She was born and raised in Guadalajara and covers business, culture, lifestyle and travel for Mexico News Daily. You can follow her lifestyle blog Dunas y Palmeras.

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This wasn’t a hipster winery in Napa, nor was it even one in Valle de Guadalupe. This was Vinicola Santa Elena just outside Aguascalientes, Mexico — and it’s one of the main wineries helping to put Aguascalientes wine on the map.

Aguascalientes: North America’s next big wine region?

Among Mexico’s many indigenous beverages, its wines are growing in global recognition. Wine regions like Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California and Valle de Parras in Coahuila are among the most famous in the country. Valle de Guadalupe is considered one of the great international wine destinations. But wine production in Mexico extends across 14 states, and the wines of Aguascalientes deserve a seat at (or on) the table.

Aguascalientes’ wineries may not have the global recognition of those in Napa Valley or Bordeaux, but what they lack in fame, they make up for in charm and authenticity. Set against the backdrop of the region’s stunning landscapes, vineyards like Vinicola Santa Elena offer visitors a chance to wander through acres of meticulously tended vines while learning about the winemaking process from passionate experts.

Here, tradition is honored, with many wineries still employing age-old techniques passed down through generations. Yet, innovation is also embraced, as local vintners experiment with new grape varietals and winemaking methods. This gives a diverse array of wines that reflect both the region’s history and its future.

Aguascalientes, while one of the smallest states in Mexico, is the fifth-largest wine-producing region in the country. With an average elevation of more than 6,500 feet above sea level, it is also one of Mexico’s highest-elevation wine regions. The semi-dry climate makes Aguascalientes a prime region for growing popular grapes like Nebbiolo, Malbec, and Sauvignon Blanc. But Aguascalientes is known for many more varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Garnacha Blanca, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Tempranillo.

The wine tradition here dates back more than 400 years. It began with Catholic Monks fermenting wine for church ceremonies. For centuries after this, the wine region sat relatively quiet until the grape-growing resurgence in the early 20th century. Today, only 25 percent of the grapes in Aguascalientes turn into wine, so if you’re able to snag a bottle, you’re sipping something exclusive.

La ruta del vino

One of the best ways to explore the wine route of Aguascalientes is to literally follow its Ruta del Vino. Aguascalientes has more than 740 acres of vineyards, divided among 16 wineries. Along the route, visitors can pop into local cheese shops and tour the historic haciendas. 

The Ruta del Vino continues through the state visiting several other wineries, as well as farms and artisanal shops that offer products that pair perfectly with Aguascalientes wine. Goaty Cheeses, for example, is an artisanal cheese shop that opened in 2015 specializing in goat cheese. While visiting the shop, foodies will have the opportunity to taste cheeses and pick out the perfect cheese to pair with a bottle of wine. 

Fincas Cuatro Caminos is another special place to taste Aguascalientes. The estate is blanketed with thousands of olive trees and their main product is the artisanal Arturo Macias olive oil. 

Of course, the main reason to tour the Ruta del Vino is to sample the good stuff — the wine. Aguascalientes’ wine production, while small, is quickly gaining international attention. The state snagged eight medals in the Mexico Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles Guanajuato 2021 competition. Judges from Europe and the Americas came together for blind tastings and ultimately awarded two Grand Gold Medals, three Gold Medals, and three Silver Medals to the wines of Aguascalientes. Vinicola Santa Elena took home the Gold Medal in the 2023 Concours Mondial Bruxelles competition.

The perfect Mexican weekend break

With so many stops along the Ruta del Vino, visitors can turn a wine-tasting weekend into a wellness journey. Several hotels within the region have opportunities to combine both wine and wellness. Casa Legato Spa Resort, for example, shows off 12 charming villas and the Tesoro de Agua Spa and Wellness Center. The spa has an impressive list of rituals, massages, and facials, including a Wine Antioxidant ritual. Think exfoliation with grape seed and a massage, followed by a wine-based mask and body wrap. The entire experience concludes with a tasting of house red paired with a cheese board.

Aguascalientes may not be the first destination that comes to mind when thinking of wine tourism, but it’s certainly one that deserves attention and a seat at the dinner table. 

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

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Taquería El Califa de León, which has but four food items on its menu, is the only taco purveyor among the 16 restaurants that received one or two stars when the French dining guide unveiled on Tuesday its first grouping of Mexico-only honorees in the Michelin Guide Mexico 2024.

It also is the first Mexican taquería to receive the honor from the legendary international dining guide.

Most of the winners on the list are posh eateries in swanky settings. But not El Califa de León, a taco stand that’s been operating in the scruffy-but-now-semi-bohemian San Rafael neighborhood of Mexico City since 1968.

Michelin’s blurb on the tiny taquería Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez made famous includes the phrases quoted above, as well as the unequivocal praise: “There is a reason why El Califa de León has endured for more than half a century.”

The main reason? The Gaonera taco, described by Michelin thus: “Thinly sliced beef filet is expertly cooked to order, seasoned with only salt and a squeeze of lime. At the same time, a second cook prepares the excellent corn tortillas alongside. 

“The resulting combination is elemental and pure. Other options are few but excellent and include bisteck (beef steak), chuleta (pork chop), and costilla (beef rib). With meat and tortillas of this caliber, the duo of house-made salsas is hardly even necessary.”

Each order comes two to a plate, with the bisteck tacos costing 53 pesos, the Gaonera tacos 70 pesos, and chuleta and costilla tacos 82 pesos (from USD $3.18 to $4.92). High-priced by Mexican standards? Perhaps, but the faithful don’t seem to be complaining. 

Newly minted Michelin-starred Chef Rivera Martínez was presented with the famous white chef’s jacket on Wednesday, while on the job. Asked what drink he likes to pair the taco stand’s award-winning fare with, Rivera Martínez reportedly told CNN, “I like a Coke.”

The stand’s founder, Juan Hernández González, created the Gaonera taco and named it — and his shop — after the famous Mexican bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona (1888-1975) and the now ubiquitous gaonera maneuver that the toreador invented 125 years ago. Born in León, Guanajuato, Gaona’s nickname was “El Califa de León.”

Patrons at the popular Mexico City taquería are greeted upon arrival by a huge griddle, upon which is a menu that’s remained the same for nearly six decades. There is also a picture of a former El Califa regular: politician Luis Donaldo Colosio, a presidential candidate who was assassinated in Tijuana at a campaign rally in 1994.

Aside from perhaps a few street food stalls in Southeast Asia, El Califa de León is probably the smallest restaurant ever to get a Michelin star. Nearly half of the 9.29 square meters (100 square feet) of the feted taquería is taken up by a solid-steel grill — which heats up to an astounding 360 C (680 F) and is one of the only “secrets” of the shop’s success that Rivera Martínez is willing to disclose.

Thanks to its popularity, a new location of El Califa de León opened in Naucalpan, México state, in 2019.

The original, at Avenida Ribera de San Cosme 56, in the San Rafael neighborhood, is located in Mexico City’s Cuauhtémoc borough. It is open every day from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

It’s always been advisable to arrive early to avoid the crowds — and now it’s probably more crowded than ever. 

Thanks a lot, Michelin Guide.

With reports from El Financiero, El Universal, CNN and Associated Press

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During an announcement program of its 2024 selection for the country that aired live on YouTube on May 14, 157 restaurants were recommended, given special “Bib Gourmand” attention, or honored with one or two stars. Many of them were in Los Cabos or Baja California, which along with Mexico City, Oaxaca, Nuevo León, and Quintana Roo, were identified as the best culinary regions in Mexico.

Baja California’s new Michelin star eateries

Baja California, for example, is now home to three of the 16 one-star restaurants recognized by Michelin in México. Javier Plascencia, long noted as one of the nation’s top chefs, was awarded a star for Animalón, his restaurant in the renowned winemaking region Valle de Guadalupe. Conchas de Piedra and Damiana, also in Valle de Guadalupe, each received one star for the culinary mastery of chefs Drew Deckman and Esteban Lluis, respectively. Los Cabos, the popular vacation destination in Baja California Sur, received one star for Cocina de Autor, the Sidney Schutte-helmed restaurant at Tourist Corridor-based luxury resort Grand Velas. 

Schutte, like Deckman, is no stranger to Michelin stars. The former helped De Librije in Zwolle, Netherlands ascend from two to three stars, then opened a second location in Amsterdam, and got it two stars. Deckman, meanwhile, earned his first Michelin star while working at Restaurant Vitus in Germany. He also pleased the palates of plenty of Cabeños (Los Cabos residents) during his time operating Deckman’s at Havana in San José del Cabo, before eventually decamping for Baja California wine country in Valle de Guadalupe. The move seems to have worked out quite well.

What are Michelin stars?

What exactly does a Michelin star signify, you ask? According to Michelin, stars are only given to restaurants that use high-quality ingredients and consistently prepare their food to an exceptionally high standard. It’s a generic description for a very rare accomplishment. Gwendal Poullennec, Michelin’s International Director, explained it better by saying it honors restaurants that are not only among the best in their respective areas but also among the best in the world.

The Baja California peninsula, it should be noted, also scored four of the six awarded “green stars,” a category that represents restaurants with sustainable and eco-friendly practices. Acre and Flora’s Field Kitchen, beloved local members of San José del Cabo’s farm-to-table movement, each garnered a green star. So, too, did Conchas de Piedra and Deckman’s En El Mogor in Valle de Guadalupe. 

Many more peninsular restaurants were recognized in the “Bib Gourmand” category, which signifies eateries that provide great value relative to pricing. Of the 42 restaurants nationwide to receive this recognition from Michelin, eight were in Baja California: Carmelita Molino y Cocina in Tijuana; La Concheria, Sabina, and Humo y Sal in Ensenada, Casa Marcelo in Valle de Ojos Negros; Merak and Villa Torél in Villa de Juárez; and La Cocina de Doña Esthela in Valle de Guadalupe. Doña Esthela can add this award to the one it received from FoodieHub in 2015 for serving “the best breakfast in the world.”

High class food for a high class region

Los Cabos, which has the dubious distinction of being the most expensive area in México, also got some “Bib Gourmand” love from Michelin. Metate, a restaurant in Cabo San Lucas, and Flora’s Field Kitchen, the already mentioned food-to-table mecca in Ánimas Bajas, just outside San José del Cabo, were also noted for serving outstanding food at reasonable prices. So also was Cocina de Campo by Agricole in El Pescadero, a small community just south of Todos Santos. 

Michelin’s least prestigious prize, although still a great accomplishment, is simply to extend its imprimatur by “recommending” a restaurant. As in previous categories, many Baja California and Los Cabos-based dining spots qualified for the distinction. Los Tres Gallos, the wonderful traditional Mexican restaurant owned by Michel Zermeño and Fabiola Sánchez, with locations in Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, was recommended. Green star winner Acre was likewise singled out in this category, as were fellow San José del Cabo restaurants Lumbre, Omakai, and Ruba’s Bakery; Los Cabos Tourist Corridor standouts Arbol, Carbón Cabrón, Comal, Manta, and Nao; and Benno, Dum, Oystera, and Paradero in Todos Santos. 

Recommended eateries

In Baja California, Michelin recommended Misión 19, Oryx, and Tacos El Franc in Tijuana; Restaurant Amores in Tecate; Bruma Wine Garden, El Paisa, Madre, Malva, Manzanilla, Ophelia, Restaurante Punta Morro, Tacos Marco Antonio, Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix, and Taquería La Principal in Ensenada; Corazón D’Petra, Deckman’s en El Mogor, Envero en El Valle, Kous Kous, Latitud 32, Lunario, Olivea Farm To Table, and Primitivo in Valle de Guadalupe. Restaurante Amores was also acclaimed for its service and given Michelin’s Servicio Award for this often underappreciated aspect of the dining experience. 

Alas, no restaurants on the Baja California peninsula were awarded two stars. That honor was given to only two restaurants in the country – Pujol and Quintonil – each in Mexico City. That three Michelin stars were not awarded to any Mexican restaurant is perhaps defensible, given that there are only 138 such restaurants of this quality that have been identified worldwide. However, the fact that Mexico as a country received only 18 stars in total, while cities New York and Tokyo have a combined 274, is less defensible. Michelin’s Mexican selections were all well-judged by its anonymous inspectors. But it probably needed to make many more to signify Mexico’s status as a premier international food destination … which those who live here know to be the case. UNESCO, which declared Mexico’s culinary tradition an intangible cultural heritage, did a far better job of making this point.

On the plus side, there are fewer restaurants than there should be in which it will now be almost impossible to get reservations. So thanks for that, Michelin!

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

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During a ceremony held in Mexico City on May 14, Michelin unveiled Stars for 18 restaurants across Mexico, including 2 two-star and 16 one-star ratings. The storied guide also awarded 6 Green Stars and 42 Bib Gourmands.

The restaurants in the Michelin Guide Mexico 2024 are located in Mexico City, Quintana Roo, Oaxaca, Baja California, Baja California Sur and Nuevo León. 

First published in France in 1900 by the Michelin tire company to incentivize motorists to use their tires, the Michelin guide has become the most famous restaurant ranking in the world — and the most coveted recognition by restaurateurs.  

From taquerías to family-run restaurants and high-end dining, here are the Mexican restaurants that hold one or two Michelin Stars in 2024.  

Two Michelin Stars

According to the Michelin Guide, restaurants with two Michelin Stars reflect in their expertly crafted dishes the personality and talent of the chef; with food that is inspired and refined.

Quintonil

Newton 55, Polanco, Mexico City 

Located in the heart of Polanco, Quintonil stood out to Michelin for its “enticing melding of excellent local product, impressive execution and great creativity to produce refined compositions,” the guide explains. 

The restaurant is named after a native herb of the state of Oaxaca. 

Owned by Chef Jorge Vallejo and his wife Alejandra Flores, the tasting menu is constantly evolving. The dishes praised by the guide include crab and shards of blue corn tostada with a vivid pipián verde, and a crème fraîche sorbet with caviar and Melipona honey. 

Pujol

Tennyson 133, Polanco, Mexico City 

Owned by Chef Enrique Olvera, Pujol has long stood as one of Mexico’s most acclaimed restaurants. 

The restaurant is mostly famous for its mole madre (mother mole) dish, which consists of two circles of sauce placed in the middle of a circular plate. The small one, at the center, is a deep orange color. The large one, which surrounds the middle one, is almost black in color and has been cooked for years. Diners are informed of the exact number of days the mole has been cooking before tasting it.  

The mole madre is the star dish of Pujol’s seven-course tasting menu. For the Michelin guide, the dish represents “an effort like no other that celebrates Mexican history and cuisine in the most profound way.” 

One Michelin Star

The one-star distinction is awarded to restaurants where dishes are prepared to a consistently high standard with distinct flavors using top-quality ingredients, the guide explains.  

Here is the complete list of restaurants with one Michelin Star in Mexico: 

Mexico City

Sud 777 

Esquina Común 

Rosetta 

Taquería El Califa de León

EM 

Oaxaca

Levadura de Olla Restaurante

Los Danzantes 

Baja California Sur

Cocina de Autor Los Cabos

Baja California

Animalón

Conchas de Piedra

Damiana

Quintana Roo

Le Chique

HA’

Cocina de Autor Riviera Maya

Nuevo León

Pangea

Koli Cocina de Origen

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The preparation of mole is a labor-intensive process, often reserved for special occasions like weddings, birthdays and major holidays, which underscores its cultural significance. Making mole involves a ceremonial-like devotion to selecting and handling its numerous ingredients — sometimes up to 30, including chilies, spices, herbs and chocolate. This painstaking process is a rite passed down through generations, imbued with familial and regional pride.

Reinventing a Mexican classic

There are some Mexican chefs who dare to experiment with this sacred cow of a sauce, like Elena Reygadas of Rosetta in Mexico City, named World’s Best Female Chef in 2023. Her recipe for pink mole with beets and radicchio infuses contemporary flair into classic mole. By experimenting with local herbs and ingredients, her menu creatively reflects the dynamic changes of the seasons. Then there’s Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, with his roasted duck enchiladas with black mole. A chef and culinary historian, Muñoz Zurita delves into Mexico’s diverse mole traditions at his restaurant Azul, blending rare regional ingredients and forgotten techniques to both preserve and innovate the heritage of mole.

In the spirit of these innovative chefs, I’d like to offer up two of my favorite mole recipes that are, let’s say, off the beaten path.

Mole Poblano Ribs

Ingredients:

2 racks of pork ribs (about 4-5 pounds)

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup prepared mole Poblano paste

2 cups beef broth

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)

Directions:

Preheat your oven to 300 F (150 C).

Remove the membrane from the back of the ribs if it’s still attached. Season both sides of the ribs generously with salt and black pepper.

To make the mole sauce, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and garlic, sautéing until they are soft and translucent.

Stir in the mole paste, mixing well with the onions and garlic.

Slowly add the beef broth, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, and smoked paprika if using. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook it until slightly thickened, about 10-15 minutes.

Place the ribs in a large roasting pan or on a baking sheet lined with foil.

Pour the mole sauce over the ribs, making sure they are well coated.

Cover the ribs with another piece of foil and seal the edges to create a tight wrap. This will keep the moisture in and allow the ribs to steam in the mole sauce.

Bake in the preheated oven for about 2.5 to 3 hours, or until the ribs are tender and the meat easily pulls away from the bone.

Optional:

For a caramelized finish, preheat an outdoor grill to medium-high heat.

Remove the ribs from the oven and place them on the grill. Grill for about 5 minutes on each side, basting frequently with any remaining mole sauce, until they are nicely caramelized.

Let the ribs rest for a few minutes before cutting between the bones. Serve hot, garnished with fresh cilantro and sesame seeds if desired.

Enjoy your mole ribs as a fusion of traditional barbecue and Mexican cuisine, bringing a unique and flavorful twist to your dining table!

Mole Milkshake

(I’m going to lose some friends over this one but it is absolutely a new take on traditional mole recipes!)

Ingredients:

2 cups vanilla ice cream

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon prepared mole paste (see note)

1 teaspoon cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Whipped cream (for topping)

Chocolate shavings or a sprinkle of sesame seeds (for garnish)

Note: I recommend choosing a darker mole, as they tend to be sweeter — a good match for this recipe.

Directions:

In a small bowl, mix the mole paste with cocoa powder and cinnamon. Add a small amount of milk to make it easier to blend.

In a blender, combine the vanilla ice cream, the remaining milk and the mole flavor base. Blend until smooth.

If the milkshake is too thick, add a bit more milk and blend again. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more cinnamon or cocoa if desired. To serve, pour the milkshake into a tall glass. Top with whipped cream and garnish with chocolate shavings or sesame seeds for an extra layer of mole flavor.

Serve immediately. Optional: tell your Mexican friends of the sin you just committed — or don’t, and we can just keep this between you and me.

Stephen Randall has lived in Mexico since 2018 by way of Kentucky, and before that, Germany. He’s an enthusiastic amateur chef who takes inspiration from many different cuisines, with favorites including Mexican and Mediterranean.

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